Door Hinge
Door Hinge Rebuild
After getting my hood problem solved, I decided to move on to getting the doors finished up and ready for final priming and block sanding. I have the passenger door reskinned and epoxy primed so I decided to start with that one.
I mounted the reskinned door using the hinges that came with it. They seemed a little loose but I thought I would try them anyway. I temporarily installed the striker and guide to the B-post and the latch into the door. I have left off the handle as I don't want to run the risk of scratching the epoxy primer. After I got everything mounted, I did a trial fit and closure of the door.  The door guide at the top of the door is not adjustable so I have to use the hinges to get the door to line up where the "male" part of the guide will go into the socket on the B-post. This took a little doing to get right. As I was adjusting the door, I noticed that the hinges, especially the top one was very loose. I decided this wasn't going to work so I took the top hinge off the door to check it out.
Hinge Design
The door hinge is pretty straight forward.
The "A-post' end of the hinge is the end I am holding to the right. It consists of a flage (which I am holding) which has a tube welded to the end of it which supports the hinge pin. 
Here is another view of the hinge which shows the tube a little better.
I had looked at the hinge before I sand blasted it and thought it was tight. The problem is that the wear is through a very short arc of the entire hinge swing and I must have had it in a unused part of it's swing.
My Plan
What I think I will do is to grind or drill out the pin from the tabs so I can separate the two halves of the hinge.  Once I get the hinge apart, I can see how much of the hinge I have to replace. Worst case as I see it is to replace both the tube part of the hinge along with the pin. Actually, I may do that anyway.
The tubing measures .625 dia. which is 5/8" and I know that is a standard size tubing. The biggest issue will be selecting a tube and pin pair that will give me minimal slop with a smooth action.
I will check out materials and get started on this next weekend.
The first thing I have to do is find the steel I need for the hinge repair.
I found a very interesting store here in Cincinnati and they are a nationwide franchise which is great for all the rest of you guys. It is called Metal Supermarket. This place is great. They sell not only all kinds of bar, angle, and tubing stock, they also sell sheet steel. This has been a real problem for me at least, trying to find suitable metal for making patches, etc.
Here is a link to The Metal Supermarket website. They claim to have european locations also so check it out.
Back to my door hinge repair.. I went over the The Metal Supermarket and picked up a 2' piece of 5/8" diameter bar stock and two small lengths of some 4140 tool steel rod for the hinge pins.
I made up a quick drawing of a new hinge sleeve that I would use to replace the piece on my car.
I had mentioned my hinge problem to one of my neighbors just in passing and the next day he came by to ask me if I had tried to remove the broken hinge pin and I said no. I just assumed that any attempt to remove it would damage the hinge barrel. Jerry had suggested that I heat it up and try to expand the barrel enough to loosen the pin and get it out of there.
Guess what, it worked.. I tried my propane torch first but that didn't get hot enough. I tried a MAP gas tank next and that worked great as you can see to the left. The epoxy primer didn't like it too much but I have more.
After I got the old hinge pin out, I rolled up a piece of 320 grit sandpaper and cleaned out all the junk in the barrel.
I cut of a piece of the 5/16" 4140 steel rod and test fit it in the hinge. I left about 1/8" hanging out the ends.
I test fit the two pieces together and they fit perfect. Absolutely no slop at all. I have to cut off the pointed end of the rod so the mounting bolt fits OK.  Overall, this wasn't too bad at all.
I tack welded the pin and ground it down a  little. Sorry about the fuziness of the picture.
That is about it. Total cost of the repair was about $12.00 in materials. Actually, that includes the 5/8" bar stock which I haven't used yet. I still have to paint it again but I will wait until it warms up a little more.
I bolted the repaired hinge on the door and what a difference! I have to check out the bottom one just to make sure but the door operation is much improved.